Park your Deau on its main stand on a firm surface and turn off the ignition and fuel.Use wooden blocks under each of the stand legs, to raise the rear of the bike slightly more than normal. This gives you more room to manoeuve the rear wheel as it comes out.
Ensure that the bike is balanced with its weight well forwards with the front wheel touching the ground; if necessary, add sufficient weight to the front to keep the centre of gravity over the handlebars. It is crucial that the Deau does not topple off the stand. If you are unsure, chock the front wheel to prevent any potential forward movement.
Remove the tyre valve cap and fully deflate the tyre, this is easier if you also remove the valve itself. It you are having a new tyre fitted, insist that a new valve is fitted.
Prevent the left hand 22mm end of the axle from rotating as you loosen and remove the 27mm nut at the other end of the axle.
Or, secure the 27mm end and unscrew the 22mm end.
Having swung the caliper bracket as far upwards as possible so that the brake disc is clear of the disc pads, theoretically there should be enough clearance to extract the rear wheel by pulling it off towards the right, off the hub when it should drop clear.
One extra dodge at this point is to unscrew the number plate panel, which should allow extra clearance at the extreme rear. But if you are still struggling with extracting the rear wheel, because there still isn't enough clearance, unbolt the drive hub - this is no big deal - and the wheel will came out very easily.
To take the hub off, remove the four 14mm nuts which attach the hub unit to the left hand end of the swinging arm. The inner top nut is quite hard to reach and required a lot of small movements with the spanner, to get it to come off.
With the four nuts removed, the hub unit very easily pulls backwards and outwards, away from the rear wheel and bringing the shaft drive with it. There is nothing to leak out.
With this extra clearance, and with the tyre fully deflated, the rear wheel can be wriggled out to the left and backwards, past the inner side of the left hand pannier body.
This was actually quite a struggle and would have been easier if there had been more space under the rear wheel. If you can manage to park your Deau with its tail over a void - maybe the edge of a patio - or on a bike lift, you'll find this job MUCH easier.
(Notice that the swinging arm has the redundant mounting for a single-shock rear suspension unit.)
Temporarily replace the axle and caliper bracket, with its spacers - so you don't forget how they fit - and put all the nuts and bolts back where they came from. Clean the underside area, mudguard space etc. Don't get any cleaning agent on the caliper disc brake pads, and dry the disc thoroughly afterwards.
Be careful not to operate the rear brake, or the pads will close up and you'll have to lever them apart to get the disc back between them.
REPLACING THE REAR WHEEL
If you have had a new tyre fitted, remove any manufacturer's stickers. Clean the wheel rim and spokes as thorougly as possible.
If you are working without a generous space under the rear wheel area, replacing it can again be quite a struggle. I am assuming here that you have removed the drive hub. First, raise the caliper bracket out of the way and fully deflate the tyre. Wriggle the wheel back into position, with the disc lined up with the space between the brake pads.
Generously grease the hub unit's splines on its inner face, and also on the rear wheel's corresponding splines. Slide the shaft into the swinging arm and ease the hub unit back into position, engaging the splines with the rear wheel.
This process is tricky as the rear wheel once engaged with the drive hub is a most awkward shape and rather heavy, so another pair of hands to support the weight will be a great help. As the drive shaft is fully inserted into the swinging arm you will probably have to gently rotate the rear wheel to and fro so that the splines at the front of the shaft engage with the gearbox.
One handy trick here is to reinflate the tyre, which raises the wheel and hub and more or less pushes it into the correct position as you tickle the drive hub's four bolts back into the end of the swinging arm, ensuring that the brake disc is still lined up with the gap between the caliper pads.
I had some trouble with doing this as I was on my own and it was a struggle lying on the floor, lifting the heavy wheel / hub and trying to get everything back into alignment, so be prepared for some cussing and swearing at this point. But once the four bolts are through the swinging arm and the 14mm nuts are started, the weight is supported by the bike and the whole job gets much easier.
Tighten the four nuts gradually, don't force this as it's possible that the front end of the shaft might not be engaged with the gearbox. If the nuts tighten fully, pulling the hub snug with its mounting, you are OK. If there is solid resistance, slack the nuts off and rotate the rear wheel to and fro engage the drive shaft, and try again. Tighten the four nuts to 48 ft/lbs.
Replace the two spacers either side of the caliper bracket. Line up the axle hole in the wheel with the corresponding holes in the drive hub, brake caplier bracket and right hand end of the swinging arm. Grease the axle well and use a rubber hammer to knock it through fromt he left to the right, securing it with the large 30mm nut. Replace the 12mm pinch bolt and tighten it to19 ft/lbs. Screw the caliper pivot bolt back in. Tighten the axle retaining nut to 65 ft/lbs.
With the bike in neutral, spin the wheel and there should no no grating or scraping sounds coming from any part of the mechanism, just the usual whir as the shaft, hub unit and gearbox work together.
Finally, pump the rear brake pedal to take up any slack in the brake action, and check that the brake light works. Spin the rear wheel to check for free rotation. Take the Deau off its centre stand and do a gentle rear brake test down your drive or pathway.
The first junction to come to on a ride is NOT the place you want to find that your rear brake doesn't work properly!
Brian Vigurs adds : "No need for blocks. Remove rear number plate panel. Remove stopper bolt from calliper. Remove axle shaft nut. Loosen (no need to remove) 12mm clamp. Tap axle shaft through. Wriggle calliper bracket free of disc. Remove spacer from oil seal. Pull wheel away from cush drive and off. Even if a new tyre was going on I would not deflate it/ There’s no way I would remove the drive unit. The brake caliper stopper bolt can be a nightmare. Nice long ½ bar (not a ratchet) and a bit of heat WILL shift the b*****d.